Stolen from Chinney

[jaurand]

Phil,

Ah! Much bigger issue. I was thinking it was for just one sliding muntin. Didn't realize you needed to cut so many.

Have you thought about cutting them on a router table? You could put stop blocks in place for the length, and a featherboard to hold the part against the fence. You would then only have square off the ends.

J

[jaurand]

Phil,

Any plans on producing these cabinets for sale?

Jeff

[Canuck]

Yeah Phil, 'what the freaking freak' 

[philtomlinson]

Phil,

Ah! Much bigger issue. I was thinking it was for just one sliding muntin. Didn't realize you needed to cut so many.

Have you thought about cutting them on a router table? You could put stop blocks in place for the length, and a featherboard to hold the part against the fence. You would then only have square off the ends.

J

I've had a problem with "wandering" bits on the router.  A long thin bit, or end mill torques out just enough to make a slight 'L' shape in the cut.  Even with a slow-start router and slow speeds.  When I have time, I may try to build one of those horizontal sliding table rigs.

And YES the cabs will be for sale.  Stay tuned.

[jaurand]

Phil,

Are you saying that the bit flexes? I've never experienced that. I usually take light cuts and make multiple passes. If it's a bit flexing problem, wouldn't you have the same problem with a horizontal mortiser? What type of bit are you using? Spiral downcut?

J

[philtomlinson]

Phil,

Are you saying that the bit flexes? I've never experienced that. I usually take light cuts and make multiple passes. If it's a bit flexing problem, wouldn't you have the same problem with a horizontal mortiser? What type of bit are you using? Spiral downcut?

J

Jeff,
Diagnosing this one has been tough.  There is a certain amount of torque whenever I start the router, even with the slow-start feature at low speeds (I'm using a Bosch 2-3/34 HP router), and there is also an initial "grab" when starting a plunge move with the router--again with a shallow cut at low speeds.  I've found that it helps to be moving the router as you plunge into the cut. 

That said, I am doing some pretty deep cuts, trying to get through 2-1/2" of white oak with a 1/4" bit.  The only bits long enough to do that are end mills.  A 1/2" shaft with a 1/4" dia. cutter  would be possible if I went at it from both sides but that adds another set-up change. 

My only experience with horizontal mortising was actually using the side table on an Incra table saw years ago.  It was very stable, and I think has something to do with feeding the work into the bit, not to mention the chunkiness of the arbor.  I will probably be taking a closer look at some of the pricey machines like the Griggio and Invicta and the Multi-router and see what makes them so stable.

Ideas?

[Roby]

Bits will wonder on a router, especiallly on end cuts where it wants to vibrate more.  I solve the problem by making the bulk of the cut on another machine and finishing up with a router that only has to remove 1/16" for the final pass, and make the pass slow.  Also, I have less problems it I keep the bit really sharp and at times I apply some spray glue to the shaft of the bit before I put it in the chuck.  This gives just the little bit of extra static friction necessary to keep it in place.  (I had one fly out at me once).

Oh and this is just a guess, but it seems that higher speeds will actually reduce the vibrations and therefore reduce the problem of it working itself up or down a bit.  One more thing, have you checked the firmness of your height adjustment.  I have had routers reajust themselves there as well.  

[Roby]

Oh, and my number one thing for routers is to undercut first and only go 1/4" deep at a time, and let the final pass just shave a little bit off to make everything flush.  The direction of the final cut is important as well, but you probably already know that. 

[jaurand]

Phil,

For a really clean exit, I'd flip the piece over. Yes, an additional set up, but you should have a cleaner cut. One added advantage is that less of the bit will be in the piece at any given time if you cut half way from each side.

I agree with Robert on the cutting undersized. You could start with a 3/16" bit, and then finish off with the 1/4". And yes, two more setups.

Here's the upside: With all those set ups no one can complain about how long it will take you! 

Jeff

[Canuck]

Phil, the more I hear about what you're trying to accomplish...I think you need to be using a 'hollow chisel mortiser'...IMHO of course 

[philtomlinson]

Phil, the more I hear about what you're trying to accomplish...I think you need to be using a 'hollow chisel mortiser'...IMHO of course 

I actually have a hollow chisel mortiser.  Just have not been able to get it to cut super accurate, clean cuts in a perfect line.  I have been using it to square up the ends of my routed slots, and it is good for that. 

Or maybe I'm just being too damn fussy!

[jaurand]

Phil,

You might try the following:

Lay out the mortise with a marking knife
Use a chisel to deepen the line just a bit
Cut from the inside of the mortise at a 45 degree angle to take a tiny wedge
This will define the line of the mortise and ensure all visible cuts are clean
Then use the hollow chisel mortiser to cut the mortise, using the deep lines left by the chisel cuts.

J

[Roby]

Ehhhh, you are a smart cookie.  You will figure something out with the resources you have  Just get that cabinet up and going, and make a second one so that you can store all of your Stickman Collection.

[philtomlinson]

Phil,

You might try the following:

Lay out the mortise with a marking knife
Use a chisel to deepen the line just a bit
Cut from the inside of the mortise at a 45 degree angle to take a tiny wedge
This will define the line of the mortise and ensure all visible cuts are clean
Then use the hollow chisel mortiser to cut the mortise, using the deep lines left by the chisel cuts.

J

That sounds about right!

Thanks Jeff, and everyone!

[jaurand]

Phil,

You'll have to let us all now how you really solved the problem when it's all done!
 

Can't wait to see the finished product!

J