Finish for puzzles

[Canuck]

Okay, it's about time we talk about our favorite finish for puzzles!

Here's my finish of choice;

I use the tried and true method of brushing lacquer (in a 1/1 ratio to thinner) simply brushed on and wiped off.

Next I use my triple buffing on the lathe, first is the brown tripoli, followed by White Diamond and then followed by pure Carnauba wax or Renaissance wax.

There are a couple of puzzle guys using strictly Renaissance wax...I gotta' say it looks good and is awfully tempting, it gives a more natural feel to the puzzle

[akbar24601]

fantastic! Thanks for sharing that. I use CA for everything, I can't help it, it's in my blood!!! Even detail my car with it!!!

How about BLO or Danish Oil, do any of those work good for that?

[Canuck]

I tried practically everything when I first started and it's generally aknowledged that lacquer is THE FINISH for puzzles.  Most every other type of finish has drawbacks, not the least of which is drying time...I go almost immediately from lacquer application to buffing, with almost no wait time...

[Canuck]

I use CA for everything

Just thought I'd mention that CA is an awesome finish for pens for obvious reasons; durability, shine, etc....but for puzzles it's not very practical

[akbar24601]

Just thought I'd mention that CA is an awesome finish for pens for obvious reasons; durability, shine, etc....but for puzzles it's not very practical

I was only being a smartie. I agree wholeheartedly!!! 

[Canuck]

I was only being a smartie. I agree wholeheartedly!!! 

Yeah ...but I did try to use it as a finish on a puzzle, you know just had to try   and it turned out quite badly, not to mention having my fingers stuck to everything

[akbar24601]

LOL!!!  I cna only imagine!!! 

[rolly_wood]

I am using shellac: regular and recently also dewaxed. In my opinion it has the property of giving a 3d aspect to the grain. However I am not able (and perhaps I would not like it too) to obtain a glossy finish and later I gently uniformly "sand" to matt, by using very fine steel wool.

[Roby]

Roby always uses the same system.  He lacqueres and follows up by rubbing steel wool on pariffin wax then rubbing that over the dried lacquer.  It provides the best finish in his opinion and also a really nice feel for the wood.

If you are concerned about warping on pieces, you rub the entire piece with pariffin wax without lacquering and then bake it into the pieces by putting it in the oven at 150 degrees for a few minutes and wipe off the excess.  That is what I am doing now for the snowflakes.  No lacquer, just baked wax finish.

[Canuck]

Canuck thinks that Roby should stop talking in the third person

[Canuck]

oh and Canuck forgot to mention he would like to see a photo of the 'Snowball/flake'

[rolly_wood]

If you are concerned about warping on pieces, you rub the entire piece with pariffin wax without lacquering and then bake it into the pieces by putting it in the oven at 150 degrees for a few minutes and wipe off the excess.  That is what I am doing now for the snowflakes.  No lacquer, just baked wax finish.

hmmmm very very interesting! thank you. Do you cause any detachment of glued joints with baking (as microwaves heating?)
but who is Roby? Here in the third person just the Pope and the Deans talk
Has Robert a nick-nickname ?
This new user is proposing Dean    (kidding of course)

[Canuck]

but who is Roby? Here in the third person just the Pope and the Deans talk
Has Robert a nick-nickname ?
This new user is proposing Dean    (kidding of course)

Ha,ha....now that is funny   Roby is now Dean!

[Roby]

Dean thinks that you should call him Mr. Dean from now on. 

I use the baking technique only for pieces that don't require glue.  However, gule will sofiten in the oven if allowed to set for 15 minutes at 150 degrees.  Wax on the other hand in the same oven will melt and absorb in less than 2 minues.

Johns method of buffing produces excellent results, but try getting into those little crannies. 

Tha lacquer methods are nice as well, but leave the wood slighlty rough unless buffed and waxes.

[Canuck]

Dean thinks that you should call him Mr. Dean from now on. 

I use the baking technique only for pieces that don't require glue.  However, gule will sofiten in the oven if allowed to set for 15 minutes at 150 degrees.  Wax on the other hand in the same oven will melt and absorb in less than 2 minues.

Johns method of buffing produces excellent results, but try getting into those little crannies. 

Tha lacquer methods are nice as well, but leave the wood slighlty rough unless buffed and waxes.

Okay Mr. Dean it is but.........now Canuck thinks you should call him Mr. Canuck

By the way, how do you know my buffing method produces excellent results?    You don't have any of my puzzles?